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As someone with hooded eyelids, I know firsthand the struggle that comes with applying eyeliner. Unlike those who have more space on their lids, it takes a lot of trial and error to make your eyeliner last — and be visible. One wrong move and the once clean and crisp eyeliner is either smudged or quickly hidden in the folds of your lids as soon as you drop your eyebrows.
Fortunately, though, celebrity makeup artist Katie Jane Hughes, a fellow member of the hooded eyelid community, shared an Instagram video of her most coveted tips and tricks for applying winged eyeliner. As it turns out, with the right technique and tools, all of your eyeliner dreams are, in fact, possible.
To help take the guesswork out of eyeliner application, keep reading for tips on applying liner on hooded eyelids from Hughes and other professional makeup artists.
Use the Right Tools and Products
Hughes emphasized that the right makeup tools and products will make this process easier. She recommended using a creamy black eyeliner pencil — we like Urban Decay 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil ($21) — and a thin eyeliner brush, such as Make Up Forever 250 Extra Fine Eyeliner Brush ($18). The former will allow you to control the amount of product, and the latter, the shape of your eyeliner.
Look Straight Ahead
According to Hughes and celebrity makeup artist Cara Lovello, applying eyeliner with your eyes open and looking straight into the mirror is a must for hooded eyes. Doing this will help you see where the folds are and prevent your eyeliner from getting lost or smudged.
"Once you have the wings sketched out, you can close your eye and finish the liner," said Lovello.
To Create a Wing, Less Is More
Hughes said a hack she does to create a winged eyeliner is applying a small amount of product on the outer corner of her eye. Instead of using the actual eyeliner pencil to create the wing, she applies a small etch of product and then shapes the wing using a detailed angled eyeliner brush.
Lovello added that applying eyeliner on the outer corner of the eyes will also help make them appear more lifted and awake.
"The black [eyeliner] along the whole top is going to close the eyes more," Lovello continued.
Celebrity makeup artist Tobi Henney also recommended keeping the line thin and long.
"By giving it some length, it will allow the liner to be seen and will still look natural," Henney suggested.
Apply Liner Over the Folds
If your winged eyeliner look gets lost when your face is fully relaxed, you can exaggerate your winged eyeliner by applying the product over the folds. At around the 11:00 minute mark in Hughes's makeup tutorial, you'll notice she begins to extend her original winged eyeliner by drawing on top of her hooded lids.
When she raises her eyebrows and her lids become smooth, however, there's a disconnected triangle shape that appears at the outer corner of her eye. Lovello said this look is sometimes referred to as "bat wings" and is a foolproof graphic eyeliner look for those with hooded eyes. All you have to do is define the triangles so that it looks like an interesting design.
Lift the Angle of Your Wing
Disguising hooded lids to make them appear more lifted is all about the angle of your eyeliner, said Hughes in the video. Point the flick of your winged eyeliner towards the tail of your eyebrow, as opposed to straight ahead, if you want that lifted appearance. If you want to get technical, Henney recommended aiming for a 45-degree angle.
Sarah Tanno, makeup artist and global artistry director at Haus Labs Makeup by Lady Gaga, said smoking out the eyeliner also helps to lengthen and lift the eye. "You can achieve this using an eyeliner and brush or any eyeshadow," she added. "I would recommend going far out towards your brow when blending that way; it lifts and elongates the eyes."
Try Tightlining
Tightlining (aka "invisible eyeliner") is when you apply liner to your upper waterline, the inner lash line. It can also help enhance the shape of your hooded eyes. When tightlining, work carefully but quickly. If you take too long, your eye may start to water, which can interfere with the application.
Consider Floating Liner
This makeup hack entails that you apply your liner just above your upper lash, about half an inch, line rather than on it. Keep your eyes closed during the application, which might look odd at first, but once done and your eyes are open, you'll have perfectly precise liner.
Keep Clean-Up Tools Handy
When it comes to eyeliner application, practice makes perfect (but the lines are sisters, not twins).
"One last tip for any liner look for hooded eyes is to have mini Q-tips on hand and micellar water or your favorite makeup remover," said Melissa Hurkman, celebrity makeup artist.
That way, you'll be able to fix any mistakes and make your lines even and sharp as a knife.
Frequently Asked Questions
What type of eyeliner is best for hooded eyes?
The best eyeliner for your eyes will come down to personal preference. However, waterproof formulas will help to minimize smudging, while a creamy liner will give you more control when applying the product.
Can I make hooded eyes look bigger without eyeliner?
Yes, try eyeshadow. Apply and blend lighter shades upward past the crease to help open up eyes and make them appear bigger. If you want to incorporate darker shades and create dimension, apply them to the outer corners of your eyes.
Should hooded eyes avoid eyeliner?
No (unless you want to). Any eye shape can wear eyeliner; it's just about customizing the product and application so it best flatters you. For hooded eyes, rather than avoid eyeliner altogether, just steer clear of liquid formulas since they can smudge easily.
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